In chapter one we follow the story of the rivet. From its humble beginnings when Jacob Davis first used some leftover rivets in 1870 to reinforce a pair of work pants to how the rivet is being used today as a branding tool by jeanswear brands and denim mills, such as Denham and Candiani.
This image: Works Inc. Rivet 2017 Courtesy of Sam Poole, Iron Hart International Ltd.
Here we give a brief company history of one of America’s oldest button manufacturers, Scovill Fasteners. Over 100 beautiful examples of vintage and contemporary button designs from Levi Strauss and Co., Lee, Blue Bell Wrangler and Carhartt to Dawson Denim, Rogue Territory and Sugar Cane Co.
This image: 1940s Blue Bell Overalls in New Old Stock with keyhole buttonhole, red bartack and Blue Bell Scovill tack button. (Wrangler Archive) image by Joey Seawell www.joeyseawell.com
With over 100 examples of paper pocket flashers and hang tags from some of todays best boutique denim labels such as Brooklyn’s BLKSMITH Denim and Left Field as well as vintage examples from the archives of Lee Jeans, Blue Bell Wrangler and Levi Strauss & Co.
This image: Early 1950s Blue Bell Jeanies Side Zip Jeans in New Old Stock with Paper Flashers, Labels and Rat Tail tags. Pre 1955 (Wrangler Archive) image by Joey Seawell www.joeyseawell.com
One of the first pieces of branding used by Levi Strauss & Co., that we know of, the ‘Guarantee Ticket’ was the predecessor of paper pocket flashers and hang tags. In this chapter we present five examples of the ticket dating from from the 1950s through to the Levi Strauss & Co.’s Vintage Clothing reproduction labels.
This image: Guarantee Ticket on Deadstock 1966 501® Courtsey of Levi Strauss & Co. Archives
Read about one of the most identifiable woven labels in contemporary history, the Levi Strauss & Co. Red Tab and admire over 60 examples of woven labels from today’s top denim brands such as Tellason, WH Ranch and Iron Heart as well as vintage labels from Cone Denim co-branded Blue Gem, Stonewall and Lee Jeans, Wrangler and Levi Strauss & Co.
This image: 1950s 888MJL Woven Size and Brand Lavel for Blue Bell Wrangler (pre 1955 Wrangler Archive) image by Joey Seawell www.joeyseawell.com
Made from leather or cloth, this is one of the most iconic elements of denim branding. Possibly dating from as early as the 1870s, the ‘Patch’ has been branded with typography and imagery to convey a denim brand’s story and identity. There are over 40 examples of vintage patches from Levi Strauss & Co., Wrangler and Lee Jeans as well as contemporary brands such as Loren Manufacturing, Butcher of Blue and Evisu.
This image” Dawson Denim leather patch. Courtesy of Dawson Denim.
The ‘Arcuate’ back pocket stitching design paved the way for denim companies to use this branding device to identify their jeans to consumers. View over 20 vintage images of pocket branding by Lee Jeans, Wrangler and Levi’s as well as contemporary brands such as Eat Dust and Kings of Indigo.
This image: 1930s Casey Jones Big 8oz Sanforized Cone Deeptone Denim Work Dungaree. Detailing UFO Rivets, Arc-uate Stitch, Buckle Back Cinch Closure and 2 x1 Denim Courtesy of the Morrison Collection, image by Joey Seawell www.joeyseawell.com
From the inside pocket bag to the back of jackets and jeans interiors, printing brand information and designs has been around since the late 1800s. This chapter features examples from Diesel, Denham, Evisu and many more.
This image: Printed artwork on Diesel. Product date unknown. Courtesy of Wouter Munnichs (founder of Long John)
In this chapter we feature another hard wear manufacturer and supplier of the first zip pull that was used on denim garments. Talon, the inventor of the Universal Fastener, was established in Chicago in 1893. We have 8 examples from the archives of Lee Jeans, Wrangler, and Talon.
This image: 70s/80s Talon 42 mark Brass (Wrangler Archive) image by Joey Seawell www.joeyseawell.com
The selvedge I.D. thread was first introduced by Cone denim and incorporated into its XX denim for Levi Strauss & Co and has now become a branding device for many mills and jeans brands to distinguish their fabrics or garments from competitors on the streets and the shop floor. In this chapter, we have some beautiful examples from mills and jeans brands.
This image: Lee 101 “Waistband Overalls” Selvedge Edge Seams 1938-1945 Courtesy of Lee Jeans.
Made famous on the backs of rodeo clowns and cowboys by Wrangler and Lee Jeans, this form of branding is having a resurgence in the form of contemporary artisans such as Blakely Custom Embroidery of Queens, New York (as featured amongst the stunning examples shown in this chapter).
This image: Direct to Garment CHain Stitch Emboidery, created on a Sunger 11x 103 Vintage Lee Rider - Made in the USA by Brian Blakely, Queens, New York. Courtesy of Blakely Custom Embroidery.
Advertising, promotional material and point of sale make up this last chapter with over 70 vintage and contemporary examples from Lee Jeans, Wrangler, Levi Strauss & Co, Diesel, Denham and Left Field.
This image: Lee Print Advertisement Lee Cowboy Pants C. 1941. Courtesy of Lee Jeans.